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Posts from the ‘Travel’ Category

Workshop recap: Peruvian Cooking Experience

When we first started planning our trip, I had visions of learning how to cook traditional foods wherever we’d go. In South America these visions consisted of images like me and a well-worn abuela, making empanadas. Me and an Argentinian butcher, grilling up all those cuts of beef I’d never heard of before. Me and a Chilean fishmonger, me and a Peruvian potato farmer, so on and so forth. Heads together, laughing, eating, poking fun at each other, exchanging knowledge (in a mostly one-way exchange, let’s be honest). But I’m not exactly sure where I thought I’d find these people; people with time and patience to spare and the interest in opening up their homes, their businesses, and/or their kitchens to teach a gringo how to make their traditional food. People who I’d be comfortable enough with to poke fun at. Now that I’ve been to some of these places, the thought is hilarious at best and embarrassing at worst. Also, I probably should have taken into consideration the consistently recurring fact that I don’t speak Spanish. Brett does a wonderful job translating for shopkeepers and hotel receptionists and flight attendants, but that only goes so far and gets pretty exasperating after even the shortest of exchanges.

And thus it was that, with only a tiny bit of logic and reasoning, my dreams of picture-perfect, authentic, intimate South American cooking lessons were bashed.

So in the absence left behind, I’ve sought out tourist cooking classes as we’ve planned each city – entirely touristy, yes, and almost certainly of the sort that merely guide you through a couple of recipes and send you on your way, but still a chance for me to ask questions about the food and get answers from people who at least somewhat know what they’re talking about.

But – it turns out these sorts of classes aren’t as common or as affordable as they are in other parts of the world (I’m looking at you, Southeast Asia …), and in each city I’d come up empty-handed. Until Arequípa, Peru, that is. In Arequípa, I found one that was even better than I could have hoped for, a three-part workshop designed by the owner of our hotel, who used to be a professional chef, and set in the hotel’s beautiful outdoor courtyard. 

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Bowen Appétit Travel Posts

All travel-related posts are catalogued here, including overviews of food from all countries in my 2012-2013 round-the-world trip.

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Chile: The Food

After Argentina, we spent five days in Chile before flying up to Peru. To get there we took an 8-hour bus over the Andes, slowly climbing up the range and plummeting back down the western side. The ride was full of breath-taking scenery and included a more literally breath-taking trip down La Caracol, perhaps the most frightening-looking strip of highway I’ve ever seen:

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That’s no guard rails, no shoulders, sheer-sided highway, as seen from the second story of a bus. Whew.

In Chile, we spent three nights in Valparaíso, a beautiful but somewhat rough-edged seaside town and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town itself is famous for its cultural atmosphere – music, art, and poetry – as well as for its major port and its beautiful beaches. After Valpo we spent two nights in Santiago, Chile’s capital and main metropolitan center. Santiago was far more bohemian than we expected, especially because of the neighborhood we stayed in, and overall we were pleasantly surprised with how much we liked it despite it being such a large, bustling city.

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Argentina: The Food

We spent just over two weeks in Argentina before crossing the Andes into Chile. It’s been a fantastic trip so far, full of all of the sorts of things you expect to experience when you’re traveling – excitement, adventure, confusion, exhaustion, making new friends, stress, more excitement, a little more stress, getting over stress, and relaxation every now and again. And plenty of eating and drinking.

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Prince Edward Island clam dig

We ended up in Prince Edward Island (PEI) at the tail end of their tourist season, a busy clamoring of folks from all over the world filling the island’s beaches and restaurants and historical attractions from late June to mid-September. The tourist information office immediately on the other side of Confederation Bridge, the 8-mile behemoth linking the island with continental New Brunswick, informed us that much of the island’s services and attractions would be shut down by now, with whatever little was left shutting down after Thanksgiving (celebrated in Canada almost 6 weeks before the one in the United States).

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But while we did find an island much quieter than it would have been a month before, we still found ourselves surrounded by the beauty, the bounty, and the culture of Canada’s smallest province.  Eager to engage ourselves in the island’s incredible array of agricultural and culinary activities, we signed up for a clam dig organized by a local tourist group specializing in hands-on culinary and cultural experiences. We were attracted to the idea of harvesting our own meal – an activity that inevitably makes the resulting food far more delicious – but also to learning a new skill, one that has fed PEI residents throughout history. Read more